Triathlon magazines are great but their buyers guides are not something we can really relate to. If someone with a nascent interest in our sport picked up the magazine they would see the cheapest bike is $3000 US and come away with the belief that the sport was simply too expensive for them. Contrary to that example, you don't have to spend a lot of money to take part in the sport of triathlon. Of course, if you like to spend your money, the sport presents plenty of opportunities to do so! This page is designed to give you a little help in making your decisions and is based on over 30 years in the sport. The top portion
The most common sales pitch used for triathlon equipment is that it will make you faster. That is an important matter to many triathletes as where they finish relative to others is the framework for their primary goals. To most participants though, where they finish relative to others is not important. For them we recommend the following general priorities when purchasing equipment: comfort, value, durability.
Must have:
Swim Suit: Any comfortable suit will do. You can bike and run in a swim suit but it might not be all that comfortable, so another option is to pull on a pair of spandex shorts over the swim suit in the transition zone then bike and run like that.
Shirt: A basic cotton tee-shirt will work but...(see below)
Highly recommended:
Shirt: Make it a micro-fibre shirt that helps to keep you cool and dry.
Other stuff
Tri Shorts: These are spandex shorts that are designed for all three sports so you can swim, bike and run in them. They have a small chamois to make the bike ride a little more comfortable and elastics on the legs so they don't ride up. The fabric also helps to wick the moisture away from your body helping to keep you cool.
Tri Shirt: This is a spandex shirt that increases comfort and fits well under a wetsuit. Some tri shirts are designed without back pockets so you can swim in them without a pocket catching water and slowing you down. We don't recommend trying to put a spandex shirt on in transition to the bike as tight spandex is awfully hard to put on a wet body using stiff arms. Like the shorts, they wick moisture off the skin.
One Piece Tri Suit: Same as tri shirt and shorts but one piece. Some upper end tri materials also repel water to make you more aqua-dynamic.
Socks: If you have used your cycling or running shoes a lot before with socks, you can often get away without using socks as long as you train this way a bit as well to allow your feet to grow accustomed. If you use socks, we recommend the micro-fibre variety as cotton will get wet from the water on your foot in transition and cause comfort problems.
Bra: This is a personal preference and there are now lots of choices out there. Many women will wear a sports bra under their bathing suit and leave it on for the rest of the race
Must have:
Suit: See above
Highly recommended:
Goggles: It will make your life much easier. Protects your eyes and allows for better vision and comfort when swimming. Find a pair that fits your face correctly. A more expensive goggle will feature greater adjustability, better durability, increased field of vision and anti-glare/uv protection.
Other stuff
Wetsuit: It will keep you warm when the water is cool but most wear them to increase buoyancy and speed. If you are doing any unsupervised open water swimming, many will say these increase your safety. Finding the proper fit is the key to buying a wetsuit. As you go up in price there are a ton of potential features including: increased flexibility in key places, variable thickness, fast and secure zippers, and a pull panel on the forearm. Don't believe it if you're told you 'must have' a wet suit to participate in triathlons. Just pick a race in which the water warm enough to be comfortable without one.
Cap: Keeps long hair out of the way, preserves a little heat if the water is cool, and increases your visibility to others (ie lifeguards). They come in both silicone and spandex versions and some are even more fitted to your head. Most races supply a cap in your race kit.
Must have:
Bike: This is generally the most expensive and complex piece of equipment required for the sport. For that reason we have developed a separate bike buyers guide located further down this page.
Helmet: Make sure it's CSA approved to provide the safety it is principally designed for. Then it's mostly about comfort - find one that fits well and has enough vents to keep you cool. The more expensive helmets bring in benefits such as more adjustments, lighter weight and increased aerodynamics.
Shoes: Firstly, you can use your running shoes; no rules against that at all. The advantage of a stiff soled cycling shoe over a running shoe is that it increases the amount of power transfer from your push to the pedal, resulting in less wasted energy. As far as cycling shoes go, like any form of footwear, comfort is number one - make sure it fits well and provides sufficient support to your feet. The venting of the shoe is important to keep your foot cool and a light weight shoe can obviously be advantageous. A more expensive shoe will have additional features including heel loops and reverse closures to help in transition, and stronger and more durable materials.
Highly recommended:
Glasses: Protect your eyes from both the sun and flying objects like bugs
Water bottle: There's no rule to say you must have a water bottle - there should be. Dehydration is extremely dangerous. Carry water and sip regularly.
Tool Kit: Technical problems in a race or training can mean a long walk home unless you have a tool kit that includes materials to change a flat and do basic mechanical repairs. Of course, many tempt fate by not carrying one as it does add weight to the bike.
Other stuff:
Cycle computer: It helps you to monitor your training and racing by telling you speed, distance and time. More expensive models can include features such as cadence and power, things that are very beneficial if you have the money and understand their use.
Must have:
Shoes: Start by choosing the right shop; one in which the salesperson looks at your feet in motion and can properly determine the level of support and cushioning you require. Then it's all about fit - find the most comfortable shoe in your price category. Breathability and durability are additional considerations.
Highly Recommended:
Elastic Laces: Who cares that they save you 5 seconds tying your shoes in transition, the key benefit here is that they are often more comfortable than traditional laces as they flex and give with the foot.
Other stuff
Hat: Protect yourself from the sun but make it a lightweight hat that doesn't cause you to overheat.
Fluid System: Some like to play it safe and have their own supply of water to supplement the aid stations. From water belts to water bags with straws, there are lots of choices.
Bike technology has advanced greatly over the last 30 years, and so have the prices. A bike that was cutting edge in 1988 would now be considered an antique. But if it was ridden to championships back in the 80's, is it not at least a decent bike for tri's today? If you want to beat the more expensive bikes to the finish line you will likely need one yourself. If your race is purely with yourself, on the other hand, then a safe and comfortable bike is the place to start. Below we have attempted to clear up some of the mystique surrounding bikes, specifically the features that come into play when the price starts to go up. The question you'll have to answer is whether you need the features or will even derive any benefit out of them. There are some bike salespeople out there that will do a great job convincing you that you need this or that feature and that you will be wasting your money with anything less. Buyer beware!
Mountain Bike/Hybrid
Summary: This is a suitable bike for a short triathlon and a participant whose goal is simply to finish the race.
Advantages: Often low cost. Multipurpose: ride it to the coffee shop and lock it up outside, or use it in a short tri. A more natural, upright riding position.
Disadvantages: Upright position results in poor aerodynamics. Flat handle bar limits hand positions which can lead to stiffness in the upper body. Wide tires create more rolling resistance. Heavier than road and tri bikes which can make hills considerably more challenging.
Comments: While comfort is number one, the more upright the rider's position, like with a flat handlebar, the more air they're pushing. This means a great deal of additional energy being burnt since a high proportion of our effort on a bike goes to simply slicing through the air. An upright position may sound comfortable, but it will result in you spending more energy and being on the course, and in on your saddle, for longer than you might be if you were in a slightly more aerodynamic position. If you can, find an inexpensive road bike with drop handle bars and you'll definitely be more comfortable overall.
Tips: If you are going to ride a bike with a flat handlebar in a triathlon or in training, invest in some handle bar ends. These are small bars that screw into the end of a flat handlebar and point forward, giving the rider an additional hand position which can help the upper body to stay more relaxed. Secondly, ensuring your tires are smooth or 'slick' will make for a faster and smoother ride on the roads.
Road Bike
Summary: This is the best choice for most recreational triathletes in our opinion. Improved aerodynamics and general performance compared to a mountain bike while providing a more comfortable and versatile ride than a tri bike.
Road vs Mountain:
A road bike allows for much improved aerodynamics, less rolling resistance due to narrower tires, lighter weight (easier on hills), and typically a stiffer frame that makes the bike more responsive. The disadvantages are that a road bike is not designed for off-road riding and the more aerodynamic position takes a little getting used to.
Tri Bike
Summary: While a road frame typically has a seat tube angle of 71-73 degrees, a tri bike is usually between 74-79. The steeper angled seat tube of a tri bike acts to rotate the rider's hips forward, allowing the shoulders lower into an aerodynamic position without sacrificing much power.
Tri vs Road: The more aero position is a huge benefit when riding in a time trial format race (ie you vs the clock). This is a thoroughbred though, so don't expect to be able to go for a ride with your buddy and his mountain bike. A tri bike is built for speed and does not feel all that comfortable going at a leisurely pace, making is the least versatile choice. The steeper seat tube also typically shortens the wheel base of a tri bike, bringing the rear wheel closer to the saddle. This means the frame absorbs less of the bumps, making for a rougher ride. A road bike is more comfortable, versatile and handles more easily than a tri bike and that is why we recommend it to most recreational athletes. On the other hand, if you have the money and can find the right fit, nothing will give you a faster ride than a tri bike, so go for it!
You have a choice: learn all you can and then go looking for a deal on a used bike or rely on the expertise at a bike shop to find you the appropriate new model. Either way, do your homework and make sure any bike you buy fits you well. Here is an excellent guide to fitting a bike written by an expert in the field. Read it before you go shopping!
Many recreational triathletes could ride an $800 bike and an $1800 bike and not derive any noticeable benefit from the more expensive model. Never lose sight of your basic goals in doing triathlons be they to simply finish the race, or to win. Below are some tips to remember when visiting a bike shop.
Make sure they ask you lots of questions about the type of riding you'll be doing.
Make clear your price range.
Have the salesman explain exactly why one bike is more expensive than another they might be showing you and how you will benefit from the additional features.
Make sure the salesman checks that the model of bike being recommended actually fits your body and that a good, basic bike fitting is included in the purchase price.
Frames
Includes: top/down/seat tubes, chain stays, seat stays, forks)
Materials (listed from most basic to advanced): steel, chro-moly (a steel alloy), aluminum, carbon, titanium
Comments: The more advanced (and expensive) materials generally give you a lighter and more responsive frame. Manufacturers will often combine materials on a bike. For example, it is common to have an aluminum frame with carbon forks.
Group Set
Includes: brakes, derailleurs, cassette, hubs, bottom bracket including chain rings, chain
Product Lines: The majority of road and tri bikes have either Shimano or Campagnolo groups. Here are the most common sets in the respective product lines in order from least to most expensive:
- Shimano: Sora, Tiagra, 105, Ultegra, Dura Ace
- Campagnolo: Xenon, Mirage, Veloce, Centaur, Chorus, Record
Comments: The principle difference as the price goes up is that the weight of the group sets comes down. The quality of engineering is said to also increase. The big question is whether a recreational rider will ever notice a practical difference between them. Be careful not to be oversold. For example, having the shifters incorporated in the brakes was a development principally aimed at those that ride in tight groups so they could shift quickly. If you don't ride in groups a lot then will you derive sufficient benefit to justify the big jump in cost? Will you be better of with shifters on the down tube?
Wheels
Comments: The average rider can stick with the wheels their bike comes with. More serious athletes will invest in racing wheels that provide such upgrades as: increased aerodynamics, better durability, smoother ride, increased responsiveness, better hubs.
Tires Comments: Get a durable tire to minimize the chance of flats. Other features available include tires with better traction/handling, less rolling resistance and lighter weight. A tire that uses a separate tube is called a clincher and is by far the most common choice of the recreational athlete. A more common option at the advanced level is tubular tires, a once piece time that includes tire and tube.
Handle Bars
Comments: Basic drop handle bars (classic 10-speed style) are all you really need. Once you've got a few tri's under your belt though, we recommend considering aero-bars as they help you to stay in a more aerodynamic position and, once you're accustomed to them, make for a less tiring ride for the arms and shoulders. The fit is the key element here; make sure they allow you to be in correct position on the bike. There are many different designs and materials but here again strength and light weight are key selling features.
Saddle Comments: You'll probably be fine with the saddle that comes on your bike. If you're looking to upgrade, after comfort, the key features include weight, aerodynamics and adjustability.
Seat post
Comments: Again, the one that comes with you bike will likely be fine providing it is long enough to ensure proper fit. More serious triathletes may upgrade to a seat post that might be made of a lighter/stronger material and feature a more aerodynamic design.
Pedals
Comments: You can use normal platform pedals that are found on recreational bikes but there are better options that require some additional skills to be developed. Clipless pedals, which fasten the bottom of your cycling shoe to the top of the pedal are considerably more efficient and, once you are practiced at unclipping them, safer than baskets. There are numerous brands but the two most common systems are SPD by Shimano and the Look Keo system. Variables to consider include platform size, ease of use, float (pedal may allow a little lateral movement instead of holding firm), leverage, stability/rigidity, weight, durability (bearings), and tension adjustment